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Expat Restaurant Guide 2008 – FRENCH
ANDRE
Rather an unsung hero. It’s hugely popular at lunchtime – and with good reason – although quieter in the evenings, as is the problem for many restaurateurs in the CBD. Really good, straightforward French food at very reasonable prices. The escargot, duck confit and creme brulee are excellent. Give it a try.
206 Telok Ayer Street, tel: +65 6223-4548.
AU JARDIN
One of the most romantic restaurants in Singapore. Its location in a black and white colonial house nestling in the lush greenery of the Botanical Gardens is unsurpassed. This is fine cotemporary French dining at its best; just remember that it’s set menus only so do give them advanced warning if you have any food issues. Service is impeccable and as for the wine list… this is the Les Amis group after all. Sunday brunch here is sensational – a winner if you have guests staying.
Singapore Botanic Gardens, 1 Cluny Road, EJH Corner House, tel: +65 6466-8812.
AU PETIT SALUT
Popular exec chef Pattick Heuberger and the Dempsey location have proved a winning combination for Au Petit Salut. Chef Heuberger has stuck to the same formula of well-executed provincial French cuisine except now the surroundings are much more of a conversion piece. Lunchtime is popular but the restaurant comes into its own with nightfall. Must tries include cote de boeuf, foie gras and escargots. Sommelier Elodie Jaglin is a font of knowledge, so do ask her advice.
40C Harding Road, Singapore, tel: +65 6475-1976.
BISTRO PETIT SALUT
Still a popular stalwart of Holland V, despite the exec chef moving to the sister restaurant at Dempsey, food has remained consistent and the crowd has stayed loyal. Expect the same bistro dishes you always enjoyed here, from lobster bisque and duck confit to irresistible desserts such as souffle and profiteroles. Atmosphere is as friendly and cosy as ever and service commendable. Reservations are essential for a terrace table.
#01-54 Chip Bee Gardens, 44 Jalan Merah Saga, tel: +65 6475-1476.
BRASSERIE WOLF
This popular spot on the Singapore River is styled in the fashion of a typical Parisian bistro, and is brought to us courtesy of veteran restaurateur Wolfgang Lapper, also owner of Esmirable. It hits the right balance between relaxed, bohemian atmosphere and authentic cuisine thanks to resident French chef Philippe Nouzillat. Everything don to the waiters’ outfits transports you to the French capital. We love sitting alfresco and watching the slow pace of life along the river.
80 Mohammed Sultan Road, #01-13 The Pier @ Robertson, tel: +65 6835-7818.
CAFE DE AMIGO
This quirky little restaurant is tucked away in a tecchie shopping centre and, decor wise, is tucked up in a time warp but it has two redeeming factors. The rustic French fare is actually rather good – oysters and escargots are a speciality – and there is a very civilised BYO policy: simply spend a minimum of S$35 on food and get your bottle of wine opened for free, though the strongly French-influenced wine list is impressive. The Singaporean owner is a lover of French food and wine, and also sells wine on the premises.
Funan Digitalife Mall, #02-15, 109 North Bridge Road, tel: +65 6835-0238.
THE FRENCH STALL
Okay, so prices aren’t really hawker standard, but who’s complaining – it’s still pretty damn cheap. Simple French food such as chicken liver pate with baguette, French onion soup and grilled steak with frites.
544 Serangoon Road, tel: 65 6299-3544.
GUNTHER’S
Chef Gunther Hubrechsen certainly caused a stir when he announced his departure from Les Amis. He caused even more of a stir when he opened his own place in partnership with the Garibaldi group. At Gunther’s he has enhanced his signature style of exquisite but not over-wrought modern French food. Stand-out dishes include scallop carpaccio with confit egg, artichoke carpaccio, tarragon grilled langoustine and low temperature-braised veal cheek. Decor oozes dark, stark, masculine elegance and is not everyone’s cup of tea; neither is the wine list which has elicited much debate – an excellent selection but the pricing makes you wince.
#01-03, 36 Purvis Street, tel: +65 6338 8955.
JAAN
The elegant and formal Jaan has beautiful hand-woven Khmer upholstered seats and over-the-top crystal-encrusted ceilings. If you think that’s impressive, wait until you see the view of Singapore spread out before you. Those with vertigo might not want to sit near a window. Refined French food with Asian accents is the name of the game here and it doesn’t disappoint. If indecision looms and you’re feeling flush, try the nine-course degustation menu. And if you’re stumped for which wine to match with the food, wine pairings are very considerately suggested on the menu.
Swissotel the Stamford, 70th Floor, tel: +65 6431-5670.
LA BRASSERIE
Formerly Townhouse, La Brasserie is running along exactly the same principals as before, ie classic bistro fare in vaguely contemporary surroundings. The weekly-changing set lunch is a huge draw, particularly for the guys and gals from the business district. At night it’s a much more relaxed affair – come here for a meal or simply a couple of light dishes with a bottle of wine from the excellent wine list. Chef Emmanuel Stroobant designed the menu so you know you’re in for some good grub.
Level 2, 56 Circular Rd, tel: +65 6236-5725.
L’ANGELUS
The food is authentically French, the wine list is a joy and the decor does its best to replicate a Gallic bistro. It’s also good value for money. What more do you want? Very popular with city lads on business lunches. The pan-fried foie gras and the duck confit are highly recommended. The complete the dining experience, service is personal and professional.
85 Club Street, tel: +65 6225-6897.
LES AMIS
After a much-talked about refurbishment that cost a cool couple of mil, and despite Gunther’s departure, Les Amis is shinning brighter than ever. If you thought it was formal before, you ain’t seen nothing yet. The main dining room downstairs is now a more welcoming space compares to the previous auterity; it’s in the private rooms upstairs where the opulence is more apparent. And, yes, there have been subsequent price rises, but Les Amis is premier league and you get what you pay for. In the manner of many of the forward-thinking Michelin-starred restaurants of Europe, the focus is on a simplicity of style that belies complex technique but allows exceptional ingredients to take centre stage. Service and wine list are still legendary. Never one to rest on its laurels, however, Les Amis is about to stir things up again. The restaurant is finally opening in Hong Kong, just around the corner from Pacific Place Three, and both Chef Mayr and restaurant manager Randy See, are heading up there to run operations. Seper-talented chef sommelier, Timothy Goh, has been promoted to manage proceedings in Singapore. Yet again we have to say watch this space, although si\omething tells us operations at Les Amis won’t miss a beat.
Shaw Centre, #02-16, 1 Scotts Road, tel: +65 6733-2225.
LES BOUCHONS
Still the best frites in town, and still free flow with main courses. You can’t say better than that. This charming, relaxed little eatery from those clever chaps at L’Angelus packs them in with simple, brasserie-style food and more than adequate steaks. Reservations are a must at weekends; try for one of the few tiny tables outside. Alternatively, there’s a new outlet, Les Bouchons Rive Gauche, which opened at Roberton Quay in River Cafe’s former premises. There are more outdoor tables here and the view over the river is a plus.
7 Ann Siang Hill, tel: +65 6423-0737; Les Bouchons Rive Gauche, #01-01 41 Robertson Quay, tel: 6733 4414.
LES SAVEURS
What a shame that the powers that be at St Regis missed the opportunity to create something outstanding here. Yes, the food is definitely fine dining in a simple yet creative way and the ingredients impeccable, but the decor is flashy and unimaginative, all columns, high ceilings, plush carpets and staggeringly ornate chandeliers. It’s also difficult to get round the fact that Les Saveurs doubles as the all-day dining restaurant. Sunday brunch is refined, as you would expect, but stories have filtered back to us that children are not entirely welcome.
The St Regis Singapore, 29 Tanglin Road, tel: +65 6506-6866.
MAG’S WINE KITCHEN
Still going strong and beloved of city boys on expense account lunches. You might wonder why; it’s nothing flashy to look at and Mag doesn’t bother with a menu. It’s the wine, you see. She has a very impressive and, more importantly, fairly priced list which is something of a rarity in Singapore. Mag’s predominantly French repertoire is small but she does it so well and has garnered a very loyal following. Eating here is like having a cosy kitchen supper at a friend’s house, but with a few first and second growths thrown in.
86 Circular Road, tel: +65 6438-3836.
MIMOLETTE
Overlooking the Bukit Timah Saddle Club, Mimolette makes for a pleasant alternative to the hustle and bustle of city dining. The menu manages (but only just) to walk a fine line between smart brasserie food and American diner style. Good for Sunday brunch and the lounge kicks off after midnight at weekends. We hear that you shouldn’t drop your car keys into the middle of table unless you really mean to (get the picture?). If visiting during the day, remember to slow down for the horses – there are far too many crass guests revving up their gleaming Ferraris.
55 Fairways Drive, off Eng Neo Evenue, tel: +65 6467-7748.
NICOLAS LE RESTAURANT
Chef Nicholas Joanny originally made his name here at the sadly now defunct L’Aigle d‘Or before heading up to Bangkok. Well now he’s back – and how – with a little jewel of a restaurant in a Chinatown shophouse. Think light, modern French cuisine with the odd Asian ingredient and you’ll be on the right track. Set lunches are great value but be aware that at night there is no a la carte, it’s a set S$100-or-so menu that changes every couple of weeks.
35 Keong Saik Road, tel: +65 6224-2404.
PICOTIN
The Les Amis group has had to grit its collective teeth in recent years with a number of high profile departures – they might say defections. Last year proved to be no different with the resignation of Sebastien from his epnymous restauramt, and Jacky Stevens from L’Estaminet. Their new collaboration, Picotin, is housed in a quaint, renovated stable block at Turf City, and is the embodiment of the old adage “if somehting ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. It’s taken the best of Sebastian’s and L’Estaminet so now you have provincial French cuisine and friendly neighborhood bar under one roof, plus great pizza, and it’s wildly popular. Emmanuel Stroobant is also a partner and has relocated his Archangel deli concept here, although it is still a work in progress.
100 Turf Club Road, off Eng Neo Avenue, tel: +65 6877 1191.
RAFFLES GRILL
Raffles Grill is the ultimate choice if you need to impress. This is as old fashioned formal as dining gets in Singapore and tones are most definitely hushed. However the cuisine has a far more innovative edge than the decor would imply and that’s what keeps this restaurant in every gourmet’s consciousness. Chef de cuisine, Charles Dubois leads an exceptionally well-run kitchen and his food demonstrates precision and flair. The wine list is as superb as ever, albeit with prices to match. Ask the excellent sommelier for advice if in a quandary.
Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, tel: +65 6431-6156.
SAINT JULIEN LE RESTAURANT
With views out over Marina Bay and a dynamic husband and wife duo running the show, it’s not surprising that this multi awards-winning fine dining restaurant goes from strength to strength. Chef Julien Bompard and Maitre d’ Edith Lai certainly have their house in order: from food to ambience, service and wine it’s all pretty faultless. Bompard’s deftness of touch is evident even in rich dishes such as lobster bisque with sea scallop and Wagyu beef cheek. Do not miss the souffles. Also, check out their fab new gourmet cheese shop, La Fromagerie, at 5 Mohammed Sultan Road.
Fullerton Water Boathouse, 3 Fullerton Road, tel: +65 6534-5947.
SEBASTIEN’S BISTRO
‘Will it survive?’ was the question on everyone’s lips when insouciant French patron par excellence, Sebastien, departed. Yes, the restaurant has moved, but just round the corner to the larger premises vacated when The Grill at Hillcrest closed. The food at this straightforward neighborhood bistro is as tasty as ever whether you go a la carte or choose something from the substantial list of daily specials.
2 Greenwood Avenue, tel: +65 6465-1980.
VIS A VIS
Something of a neighborhood institution since 1992, this cosy restaurant has stood the test of time by sticking with what it does best, typically food from Provence, and not following trends. Yes, the decor is a bit dated but you come here for the classics and the noteworthy wine list. Lots of truffles, foie gras and game on the menu, and the French onion soup and escargots are a highlight. Since a new owner took over. Vis a Vis has merged with the Thai restaurant next door and now offers a French-Thai menu. But it still has a loyal following.
12 Chun Tin Road, tel: +65 6468-7433.
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